Marshall's Journal

Notes from the road, dispatches from fine places

Why Holbox Still Works

Why Holbox Still Works

Holbox is the answer when someone asks where to go in Mexico without subjecting themselves to the influencer carnival that Tulum has become. Getting there requires a small amount of effort, which I su…

Holbox is the answer when someone asks where to go in Mexico without subjecting themselves to the influencer carnival that Tulum has become. Getting there requires a small amount of effort, which I suspect is precisely why it has stayed sane. You take the ADO bus from Cancun south to the ferry port at Chiquila, board a twenty-minute crossing, and step off onto a car-free island where the dominant modes of transport are golf carts and bare feet. The pace is genuinely, pleasantly sleepy in a way that feels earned rather than performed. The water on the Gulf side runs shallow and warm, and the turquoise is exactly the shade that looks manipulated in photographs but turns out to be even more implausible once you are standing in it. Timing matters considerably here: December through March gives you the best weather and, critically, keeps you clear of the summer jellyfish season, which is not exaggerated and will ruin your swims if you decide to test it.

For accommodation, skip whatever large resort is currently trying to inch its way onto the island and go small. Villas Flamingos and Casa Las Tortugas are both solid mid-range choices with direct beach access and staff who seem to genuinely care whether you are having a good time. Neither will do serious damage to your account, and you will not be spending much time in your room regardless, because the real business of Holbox is eating well. That means getting yourself to El Chapulim for fresh seafood and ordering the lobster pizza. I know how that sounds. Order it anyway. Edelyn handles breakfast, a local spot with cheap, generous plates that draws the same crowd every morning for reasons that become obvious immediately. Evenings end at Roots Bar, mezcal in hand, feet in the sand, watching the sun go down over the water. That is the full itinerary, and it does not need anything added to it.

If you are flying into Cancun for this trip and have any flexibility at all, route through Mexico City on your way home rather than flying straight back. People who skip it are making an error they will understand the moment they hear everyone else come home raving about it. If budget is not a serious constraint, the St. Regis on Paseo de la Reforma is the right call: the bar looks directly out at the Diana the Huntress fountain, and breakfast there alone is reason enough to book the room. For something with more character and a better neighborhood for walking, Las Alcobas in Polanco is a sharp boutique alternative. Polanco operates at roughly the level of Beverly Hills but with considerably better food, and you can reach a dozen serious restaurants on foot without planning. Give Mexico City at least two full nights, and do not let anyone convince you it is too complicated or too large to justify the detour.

Go to Holbox in January or February, book your small property early because the good ones fill up faster than you expect, and treat Mexico City as a required stop on the itinerary rather than an afterthought you are still deciding on when you land.